Pre Tricycle: India behind the scenes

Well the last few days have been very interesting. I have been happy to slip past the facade of tourist hustlers and pushy shop keepers to some of the more real behind the scenes views of India.

A single young jewelry salesman named Richy has befriended me and allowed me to sit and observe the workers in the small silver jewelry factory where he works. It is a fairly simple factory in the rooms of a small house where a couple of men sit cross legged at a low table, heating, filing and cutting to achieve beautifull rings and pendants. They showed me how they cast wax in small rubber molds and then use these to create a plaster of Paris mold for casting the silver. These cast parts are then hand worked, adorned with gem stones, buffed and then sent to the show room. They work from 10am until 8:30pm 6 days a week, for I think 3000 rupee, around $70 NZ per month. One of the workers invited to meet him at his home at 6am where I met his 10 year old son,  2 year old daughter, wife and grandfather, all living together in a room about half the size of a school bus. Hi son is crazy about cricket, as most Indian men I meet are, and rattled off all of the New Zealand cricket team names to me and the scores of the last game they had played against India. "When I grow up I will be a cricketer", he says with his small hand over his heart. He seemed fairly intelligent and read me a couple of stories from his school book in very good English. One was a simple child story about a corrupt politician stealing money that was supposed to be used to dig wells. I was served a breakfast of a butter and sugar sandwich and then asked to sketch a photo of the man with his arm around his wife. This man seems like a good father who has very little hope for the his future but lots for his children and has an active involvement in their lives.



Richy gave me directions to a silverware factory where I explained to the man I was a mechanical engineering student and interested in a tour. He said this was illegal but took me down into the underground rooms and preceded to give me a detailed tour of the vast warren of rooms where men sat spinning bowls, hammering designs, assembling boxes, sand blasting and polishing. The bosses of both these factories showed a great deal of superiority over their workers who jumped at their every command. Richy's boss will not sign a simple form allowing him to visit Sweden. Richy says this is due to wanting to be superior to his worker and not allowing him to have an experience he himself has not had. I have talked with Richy about the subject of castes and untouchability. The government has imposed that a certain percentage of jobs must be occupied by workers of lower castes. Richy finds this unfair and says that it often results in people unsuitable and lazy getting jobs while better applicants of higher castes miss out. There does still appear to be a suppression of certain casts. Richy's boss has employed an untouchable boy to serve tea, but doesn't seem allowed to do much else. Richy and the workers seem to respect and treat him well.

Richy took me out to a Bollywood movie. I was the only western guy there so was closely observed. I found it incredible, so dramatic and over the top with amazing music and dancing. People shout and cheer all through the movie which is perfectly acceptable.

I had a great walk yesterday up a hill to a sun temple where the sun rise shines through a doorway onto the figure of a sun god. A lady lives there and says that her family have owned the temple for 300 years since it was built. I helped her to drape out her damp washing and was offered tea and chapati in return. I continued on to Galta, an incredibly beautiful location with a temple wedged in a rocky valley. There are holy pools full of people bathing and a green lawn adorned in bright pink and orange sarees which women have laid out to dry. I meat one business student who sat and chatted with me for a couple of hours and invited me to dinner at his home tonight. I will be interesting to see inside the home of a middle class family.



I spent one night sleeping in Richy's flat, which is a tiny room with a mat on the floor. We chatted into the night about his experience of tigers in his village and about his father who he describes as a very good and physically strong man which drank 2 litters of milk a day but died sadly of chicken pocks when Richy was 7. Richy had to start working along side his schooling at the age of 10. He worked in construction, well digging, tree felling, teaching and now jewelry sales. His mother still lives in the country, and the money he earns helps to support her and his brothers children. His brother drinks to much and does not care for his children's education, so Richy says it is his obligation and he loves them like his own. When I asked if he wanted children he said, that there were too many people in India all ready.

A popular topic with the men here seems to be sex. Within the first minute of my meeting someone they are unashamedly requesting details on what they expect should be the raging sex life of a healthy young western man. I leave them shocked and disaponted but they continue to talk about there own feelings and experiences. I guess I should expect little less from the country which invented the Karmasutra.


Pre Tricycle, Amber Palace

Take one street full of rubbish,
a trailer of cow dung
A sky full of Water

and you have made the pleasant soup which flows through Jaipur city for you to wade through in open sandals. This should be expected in all cities of India though the constant rain of the monsoon does not make the streets the nicest place to be. Never the less I have done plenty of walking and exploring. I walked to the Amber Palace which sits in one of the most beautiful valleys I have seen yet. Bellow the palace is a lake and tidy well groomed hedge gardens and around it the ridge line of vibrant green, bushy and rocky hills are followed by a great snaking stair cased wall and temples. The gardens were full of people picnicking as it was the Muslim holiday of aid for the finishing of Ramadan. I was determined to find some chicken for lunch and after asking 3 restaurants who said they had only vegetarian I was about to go without. One Muslim man then got talking to me and on discovering my chicken quest, he lead me down a street and opened a door to a giant completely empty dining room which was shut for the holiday. He called his cook friend who then went out to get my freshly slaughtered chicken and returned to make me a tasty chicken masala.
One of the hundred groups of boys that want their photo with me.

I also met a man who sells paintings done by disabled people. The government provides education to these people to learn a craft enabling them to support themselves. He then took me to the house of one of the artists where I was able to watch him painting a typical scene of the cart being pulled by cows. He says he will also take to me see a factory which assembles hand powered tricycles in Jaipur which may be useful. I fear however that I may be obliged to purchase many of his paintings.

This morning my host Pushpendra took me and a German guest for a 2 hour walk at 5:30am up to the tiger fort. It was like walking with terminator as this large Indian man stormed ahead at Olympic pace with his head phones on singing western love songs.

I have primed my metal sheet and shall get started on the painting the sign for his hotel today.


Pre Tricycle travels. Pink city


Hello. I had a few days to explore the blue pink city of Jodpur with its amazing fort shown above lit up at night then  boarded the tangle of general class Indian arms and legs on the local train to Jaipur.

I now am volunteering at my first helpx host in Jaipur. I feel like sleeping beauty, or perhaps a little Indian prince locked up in a high tower which is my room for 2 weeks
.
Its a really nice hotel. I get to paint a couple of signs and pictures as well as serve drinks on the beautiful rooftop bar.


India trains


OK 100 people just joined my tranquil train carriage so I am now
pressed up to the window with my kindle in my face. Well couch surfing
is a little different in India. For starters they are nearly all hotels
trying to get business with their restaurant or guide trips by providing
free couch surfing accommodation. This is not so bad but I really want
to be in the homes with the families to see how they live, not with
 young tourist hustling boys looking for relationships European girls. I
found that if I eat dinner at a cheap street stall it can result in me
being taken around on a motor bike tour around the lakes, up for a
game of pool with some students on a rooftop, under a temple in the
middle of the night with a bottle of beer and a guy paranoid that the
police are coming, or invited home to spend the night with
mother,grandmother and auntie insisting I eat another chapati. I
saw the lake side city of Udaipur with its palaces in the water and
then headed to Jaisalmer a fort on a mound in the desert with intricate
sandstone decorations all over the walls. I did a camel safari for 2
days in the dessert, stopping  at some Gypsy villages to be swarmed
with children using me as a jungle gym and trying to take my pants
off. The man next to me says the train is about to become more than
full up. I thought no more could fit. There is a man at my feet and boys above my head.
So I will send this message now.


India Begins

Please ignore spelling mistakes as this is written awkwardly from a kindle.
15 months after leaving new zealand, I have finaly touched down in india. I stepped out into the suprisingly pleasant, tepid soup that is mumbai air, a fragile parcel clinking preciously in a plastic bag at my leg. Task 1, deliver two duty free bottles of whisky to one Mumbai doctor as delicately prescribed. Sidarths driver picked me up from the air port and drove me through the cacophany of rubush and richshaws to the site of my first couch surfing host. The over flow room of a back street medical clinic no bigger than a car boot. Dr Sidarth greeted me and the whisky warmly before giving a detailed but rappid scrawling of instructions for an evening exploration of mumbais atractions and sending me off into the maddness. The old colonail buildings were beautiful but the train ride more interesting as it tore  through the city like an electron through a thriving machine of human squalar. Wind blowing through the wide open doors and the many bony bodies that hung carlessly from them. Dr Sidarth took me and another american couch surfer up to his high rise family apartment for a platter of indian home cooking and whisky tasting with his mother and father. His father pointed out the great  view explaining the 3 levels of the city. "The rich look out of their high rise windows to the moderately sized homes of the middle class who in turn look out their windows and down to the pore in the slums. All clases living together." Perhaps a good time to introduce the topic of castes and untouchables but I thought better of it. Sidarth dropped us at the beach the next morning where we were left to become immursed in  a where's wally sceene involving 900 cricket games amongst 500 football games and groups of boys practising back flips. Sidarth was a great host. Despite being overrun with patients as it was sunday, his day of free consultations he was very patient and helpfull. In the afternoon he orgonised my rickshaw ride to the train station out to my next destination and loaded me with a collection of rupees. A generouse man who's meeting is well worth couple of bottles of whisky. I now have have 5 weeks to explore the north of India before begining the tricycle project in Kerala down south. I hope all of my encounters are as warming as this first one.